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This mini-manual uses photographs of the final prototype sail and the final pre-production mast. Where changes occurred between these and the production units, they are described below
The sail needs to be hoisted very near to the
sheave so do not tie a long bowline in the halyard.
Do a single overhand knot then follow with
another overhand as shown. The final sail has
a grommet in the
head instead of the
tape (see at right)
and you should still
use this knot.
Feed the bolt rope in from the side of the gooseneck.
The feeder has been placed very close to
the gooseneck because the tack of the sail
needs to be held against the mast to take the
tension load from the outhaul. The feeder in the
picture was a little too close, making the hoisting
difficult and it has since been raised one inch. A
little sunscreen lotion on the bolt rope, or sail
track lubricant, greatly eases the hoisting operation.
Hoist the sail until the top of the head is
even with the top of the black laminate. See
above. For every 1" you are lower, the bottom
block of the cunningham will travel 4" lower until,
finally, it will hit the deck before the cunningham
is fully tightened. The cunningham is the accelerator
on the CII and you MUST be able to
tighten it completely to fully depower the sail.
Once the sail is set up on shore, sheet the main
in lightly and cleat it. Now pull on the cunningham
and observe the mast bending in response,
the main flattening out and the complete lack of
tension in the leech because there has been no
mainsheet or vang tension applied. This means
that it will open easily and quickly in response to
the wind pressure. If you need more power, just
release the cunningham.
The pictures show the recommended cunningham
arrangement. A loose spectra braid has
been used which is easily spliced even by an
amateur. A loop has been created in the middle
of the line and this is hooked over the pin of the
twist shackle that holds the vang.
Attachment point in place.
The existing system of a rope passing through
the grommet and terminating in a block can still
be used but the system shown, using a hook
block is simpler and allows easier de-rigging as
the whole system can stay with the mast.
This shows the complete 8:1 system in place.
Note that the tack of the sail is well up above
the boom for light air. In heavy air, it will be
down very near, or at, boom level.
The final 2:1 purchase uses the existing
cunningham deck line (shown in green) which
should still be fed through the bullseye. In all the
pictures, the vang has been removed for clarity
but it is the standard Byte vang. You might have
to shorten some of the falls in your vang because
the gooseneck is about 50 mm (2") lower on the
carbon spar but the vang tang (attachment point)
is at the same height off the deck.
You can use your existing halyard but we suggest
you rig it as follows. After the main is fully
hoisted, bring the fall of the halyard close to the
gooseneck and push a piece of light shockchord
through the rope at approximately the top of the
gooseneck fitting. Make about a 6" loop . Pass
the loop under and over the fitting then back
down and hook onto the bolt holding the blocks.
Halyard secured. Now pass the tail of the halyard between the cunningham and the mast as shown
in the picture and stow in the pocket at the bottom of the cuff.
The Cuff
There are two positions on the foot of the sail to secure the tail of the cuff. Use the aft one in strong winds and the forward one in light airs: it makes it easier to shape the foot of the sail. The cuff has been demonstrated to be increasing the aspect ratio of the sail and to significantly lighten the helm in strong winds. If not enough tension is on the cuff in strong winds, it will "suck" out to leeward of the mast indicating that the area is in lift. It is also reducing the drag from all the control lines in the area.
